Long Road to Eden- that’s Manali for you!

Situated about 270 kms away above Shimla, the convenient route to reaching Manali is taking a train to Kalka and then hitting the road by cab. Of course, you could also hitch a ride in the frequently plying Volvo buses from New Delhi but that is if you are up for getting cramped in a seat on a winding, uphill journey for a good 15 hours of a day, giddy passengers included! Either way, be ready to invest a day’s time to actually reaching Manali, known to be one of the most popular hill stations in the snow-bound state of Himachal Pradesh.

Your main reasons for subjecting yourself to this arduous journey should be an escape from urban civilisation, much needed rejuvenation in a pollution free zone, tramping on snow while breathing in the refreshingly chilled air, and basically spending some quality time at a high altitude with your loved one. If not these, how about a food trail across the hills with every kind of cuisine on offer- Continental, Indian, Chinese, Italian…hell, I even bumped into a Korean food joint so far up in the hills! Give the butter heavy North Indian fare a miss, trust me there’s more that can please the palate here. So if a smoked chicken grill sandwich and syrupy pancakes at Johnson’s Café doesn’t kickstart your mornings, there’s always chicken stroganoff with herbed rice and mashed potatoes and apple wine to wash down the fatigue after a long trek uphill. When in doubt, go for the good old safe and wholesome comfort food- Maggi. Trust me, I have never relished this humble snack anywhere as much as the piping hot delicacy they belt out in the hills on a cold wintery day.

What romanticises the long road to Manali is the fact that you get a glimpse of rustic Punjab de khet, sweeping shots of the valley as you climb further, the gushing river Beas that accompanies you through much part of the way after crossing Kullu, the pine and deodar trees that line the slopes like silent sentinels and the orchards around every bend that bear ripe and luscious fruit every season. Manali is known for its fruit produce of apples, pears and peaches which means it is a great place to look for by-products of the same- juices, murabbas, jelly, jams, papads, chutneys and even pickles. What particularly caught my fancy was the amazing wines and cider drinks that they make for- if Eve fell to an apple, try getting seduced by an intoxicating glass of apple wine!

Pardon my non-adventurous nature but if skiing and paragliding give you a high, then do the Rohtang Pass and Solang Valley routine. It will get your adrenaline rushing like never before but be warned, the fun is over-priced, short lived and depending on which time of year you head there. If you are really one for the thriller mode of travel, try hiking up to Lahaul, Spiti, Bara, Bhangal and Zanskar. Further up is Leh-Ladakh if you are up for it!

As for me, I got my thrill chills the moment I felt the cold but pleasant Manali breeze hit me in the face when I rolled down the window of my car en route. The sight of serene snow peaks lit by the moonlight was a sight to remember for life as we made our nocturnal journey towards Drifter’s Inn, our address for the next two days. The moment I stepped out of the car though, I was shivering like a leaf even until I reached the warm dining lounge inside the cosy little Inn. A hot dinner of kheema pav and mushroom mutter masala with rice coupled with warm Honeybee brandy was the perfect ending to a road trip that looked like it would never end. A fitful night of sleep later, we were ready to explore the city’s length and breadth but frankly speaking don’t go in with too many expectations. The Manu Temple after which the place gets its name (Hindu lawgiver and creator of the human race Lord Manu), the Hadimba temple, the Vashist hot springs and the Buddhist monastery didn’t meet my sight-seeing expectations. I rather savoured a lazy morning playing pool at the Club House followed by some vigorous boat racing at their in-house lake.  By the way, the mouthwatering food, hookah and drinks we hogged over at Drifter’s is the stuff fantasies are made of. Think freshly baked waffles, bacon and eggs, chilli garlic fries, pan grilled trout with veggies, cous cous and rice in garlic butter and Himalayan style lamb curry. Add to this, countless number of hours spent over bargaining and shopping for authentic Kullu shawls and mufflers, Nehru jackets, knick knacks and fruity treats to take home from Mall Road till my nose turned stiff, red and running and I can say my trip was a fulfilling one indeed.

If Manali is not enough to satisfy your wanderlust, worth a dekko is the Naggar castle built in stone and wood , approximately 20 kms away from Manali, once a medieval castle built by Raja Sidh Singh of Kullu around 1460 A.D and now a mid-segment heritage hotel run by HP Tourism. Those interested in getting a whiff of high art can go admire the private collection of paintings that cover the local landscape by Russian artist Nicholas Roerich at the Art Gallery in his name, also in Naggar. Like many foreigners who have found home and haven in various scenic locales of India, the museum is what used to be his residence after he arrived in India way back in 1917.

Likewise, many an Indian or overseas tourist has found Manali calling for the sheer joy of lying idle in the lap of nature. After all, every human being craves the joy of isolation, peace and sanctity at some point in their life. Whether you are an artist, drifter or plain old tourist in need of novelty and inspiration, Manali promises you comfort, charm and chill- like no other place in India.